The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time

The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time by Simon Winchester

Things can change a lot in two decades in China. Today, you could take a nonstop train from Shanghai to Tibet. The two day journey will take you overland and let you enjoy the scenery.  No need to struggle on back roads. If you want to stick closer to the Yangtze, you could take the high speed rail to get to Chengdu in less than 12 hours. There are also numerous flights available that can take you quickly in comfort.

However, speed is not the point of this voyage. The author wanted to stick close to the river and explore the various cities and features along the way. Some of these isolated farming areas are still there, mostly unchanged. Some areas are now among the many villages inundated by the Three Gorges Dam. Some places remain in a sense, but are now far ahead technologically, with high rise buildings and cell phones available. Some of the traditional practices have faded away, while others remain. Even Tibet has become more technologically advanced (and a bit more Chinese.)

The book is a travel book, interspersed with historical background. He sets up to travel the length of the river. Along the way, he gives history of interesting parts. He meets up with people and has struggles on the travel. It is by no means a complete account of the areas, but provides instead highlights of what is interesting to him. British imperial activity and Maoist actions are primarily covered. Other parts of historical significance are mentioned only in passing. The actions and reactions of the people are also of interest. It seems the world has tried to "abandon" China at times, only to have China say "fine, we'll do it our way."